Magellan the Monarch

I have always been interested in maps, charts, treasure maps, and such. As a kid, I used to make my own “authentic” treasure maps. I’d use extra-thick, quality paper, and then use an old-fashioned quill-style pen to draw and illustrate my maps. Then, the pyro in me would take over. I’d carefully hold a lighter under the paper, to warm it enough to change to a more golden brown. I’d then singe the edges a bit, too – to make them a darker brown and oddly-ruffled due to the shape of the burning. The end result was actually pretty decent looking – for a kid.

In the military, I learned “land navigation” and such. I was trained on how to read topographical maps, how to properly use a compass to triangulate my position, and how to “pace” myself (at both a walk, and a jog) to calculate accurate distances traveled.

After the military, I took private pilot lessons (ground school) as well as some flight lessons (just about to solo, when 9-11 grounded all of us.) I learned how to read aviation charts, how to leverage broadcast signals from radio towers to triangulate my position, and also GPS functionality.

So, before heading out on this semi- ,cross-country adventure, I purchased one of the best nautical navigational programs on the market. It’s a PC-based program, so I can run it on my laptop (or shipboard computer.) I attached a GPS antenna to my laptop, and this program then plots my position onto the charts. AND… Not just ONE chart, but MULTIPLE charts! Raster charts, vector charts, terra server maps, topographical maps, satellite photos, etc. The software also came with these maps for ALL of the US and its territorial waters. (Most nautical GPS makers only give you ONE specific region/area, and then you have to buy extra “modules” for other areas/regions.) Whereas, the software that I purchased, includes them ALL (plus tidal information, and weather information, and more!)

I assumed that this would be the BEST OF THE BEST when it comes to navigation. I should be able to drive almost blindfolded with all these whiz-bang GPS mapping programs and such – right?

So, imagine my surprise, when I purchased “Global NAVIGATOR” software, and one of the FIRST instruction/warning sheets say, “US Army Corp of Engineers Rastor Charts are NOT to be used for navigational purposes.”

What?!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did buy Global “Navigator” – right?

I went ahead and installed ALL of the software onto my laptop. Not 20 CDs – no, that would be to easy – this was 20 DVDs of data!!!!!!!

Afterward, I walked around the docks of Alton Marina with my laptop and GPS in-hand – watching as it tracked my location – down to the specific gangplank/dock/pier that I was on (roughly one-foot worth of accuracy.) I did the same with Google Earth, and received the same results. SURELY that must have simply been a “legalese” safety warning on that label – to hold the manufacturer harmless for any boating accidents – right?

All was pretty good down the Mississippi River. There weren’t any “vector” charts of inland rivers – only raster charts. But, they SEEMED to be working well enough…

That is UNTIL we entered the Ohio River, and then the Tennessee River. From that moment onward, I learned EXACTLY what the manufacturer meant by “not to be used for navigational purposes.”

Here is MY explanation of what raster charts are: They are “fuzzy” charts, not really drawn to scale, by multiple people – who do NOT speak to one another, nor share/compare their work. Plus, they use CRAYONS and slide-rules and etch-a-sketch as their computers to create their maps.

Sure, they label where all of the channel markers SHOULD be located. Sure, the show that the river bends to the right, and then to the left, etc. But, when you try to connect charts edge-to-edge – their waterways don’t even line up – BY A LONG SHOT!!! And, sometimes, they publish their chart “legends” right over the seam (main river) where the charts are SUPPOSED to be aligned!

And, NEITHER chart is accurate to GPS-level correction. At times, it looked as if our boat was traveling ½-mile inland from the river!

My daughter (who is a GREAT musician, actress, and PEFORMING arts person – but, a lousy fine-artist) could make a BETTER and MORE ACCURATE chart than the clowns at the Army Corp of Engineers.

Sidebar: Don’t EVEN say that this is an “Army” issue. I was in the Army, and this level of inaccuracy would have NEVER been tolerated. Plus, I have been locking-through dam after dam and lock-after-lock that has been operated by the “ARMY” Corp of Engineers – and I haven’t seen a SINGLE soldier! All I see are civilians/ So, don’t even TRY to blame my green-suited friends for this stuff!

Anyway, when we finally got down into the Tenn-Tom Waterway, at some point along the way, vector charts finally became available.

While raster charts are the equivalent to a Ronald McDonaldland play map – vector charts are the exact opposite. Vector charts seem to have been created by retired NASA nerds. These suckers are wicked-accurate. You CAN “navigate” with these puppies!!!

And, thankfully so!

When we hit the rain areas these past few days, it always seemed to come down the strongest/hardest during the most twisty portion of our journey. They rain came on SO FAST, and came down SO HARD, that there wasn’t time to seek shelter/cover or find a “safe” cove to hold-up in. There were NO COVES!!! We were in “the ditch.” The banks were rock levees, and they were just two endless parallel banks that extended for MILES. And, not necessarily STRAIGHT parallel lines. Nope, they twisted and turned, sometimes making nearly complete circles in one direction, before un-circling into the complete opposite direction. The rain was coming down almost like THICK FOG during some of these events. THANKFULLY, we were within VECTOR charting areas! 

With the vector charts, we can literally drive “blind” to what’s outside. Not that this is a “safe” practice!!! But, the accuracy of these charts is down to the foot, so we knew that we weren’t going to run ashore, or into the shallows and get swamped.

“Our” biggest fear were the tugs/barges traveling upstream towards us. But, they are equipped with the same charts, PLUS radar and other equipment (night vision, etc.) to help them see through pretty much anything. So, they can see us (even if we can’t see them.) So, the only REAL threat, was fellow boaters (like us) who were temporarily blinded by the rains. We weren’t too worried about other “cruisers” like us (who are poking along at only 5-10 miles per hour.) Instead, or biggest risk was the weekend boater, who maybe tried to RACE their small, uncovered pleasure boat out of the downpour – and right into us. We would have had ZERO chance to react/maneuver out of their path.

I also began to do as I learned when I was flying. I began to “broadcast” out location and such “into the blind.” Channel 16 is the “general” channel for boaters. So, I reduced my radio from 5 watts or power, down to only 1 watt of power (thus, focusing my broadcasts to only LOCAL fellow boaters.) I then periodically broadcast our position (via mile-markers) as we proceeded downstream. River traffic has been nearly ZERO. Thus, I never received a single reply to ANY of my “blind” broadcasts. But, I figured that I was better safe than sorry. Maybe they were having radio problems, and could only “hear” – but, not “respond” to my broadcasts and positioning?

Anyway, we made it through, without any issues or incident. I do NOT recommend it! It’s white-knuckled driving – like driving your car through a snowstorm that you KNOW that you shouldn’t be driving in. When you get home, you thank God, and your lucky stars, and promise to NEVER do something that STUPID again.

In our case, we didn’t have much choice. But, THANKFULLY, we were within vector chart zones. We would NOT have been able to safely navigate those waters and weather conditions with only raster charts. We would have definitely run aground somewhere (due to their inaccuracy.)

To, my hat goes off to the makers of vector charts, GPSs, and Magellan himself. Our boat has several compasses, above and below. It also has a semi-functional (old-school) radar unit. But, it’s most POWERFUL and USEFUL tool, has been the vector charts PLUS the GPS.

Last night, we had a repeat performance of sorts. As the storms finally stopped pouring onto us, the sun then set. The cloud-filled skies made for a DARK river. We tried to stop at cove after cove for the night, but they were all too shallow. So, we had to keep pressing onward – into the ink of the night. Again, VECTOR charts to the rescue! We were able to poke our way (cutting our speed in half) to our destination. We arrived quite a bit after sunset, and the place was already closed, and the docks were already FULL of other boats (faster boats that beat us to the marina.) So, we had to back-track up river a few hundred yards, and drop hook as close as possible to a creek inlet. We were still on the river itself. But, so was the marina. A passing barge seemed to slow down as it passed the marina – which meant that it was also slow as it went past us. So, I figured that our proximity to the marina would benefit us (tugs know to slow-down here and try to make no wakes.) Plus, the first passing barge was a great test – to confirm that our two anchors were properly set (and holding.) And, that their wave wouldn’t wash us into the shoreline.

Today (Sunday) the skies opened with a torrential downpour (again.) We are experienced with our vector chart navigation routines now!

In the beginning, we would retreat below, to the warmth and dryness of the lower helm. But, the rain on the windshields was so thick, that you couldn’t see through the raindrops. So, today we learned, that it’s better to just suit-up in our raingear, and continue to drive from above (in the flybridge.) We have a GREAT, unobstructed view of the river, and we have our vector charts to boot. (I have set-up a remote monitor to my laptop, so I now have our digital GPS charts both above and below – way kewl!)



Oh, and a few words about trying to navigate via navigational buoys…

I think those suckers are worth POINTS or something to passing barges!

We have seen DOZENS of navigational buoys that have come loose, and been washed up into the banks and trees – or simply moved/pushed/floated into a new/different location (and now reflecting a COMPLETELY WRONG message to passing boaters.) There are several rules of thumb when navigating via channel markers. But, the most common saying is, “Red, Right, Returning.” This means that when you are returning from the sea, the red markers will be on the right bank/side, and the green markers will be on the left bank/side. (Naturally, of you are heading OUT to sea, then the markers are on your opposite sides.)

But, it CAN get confusing, when you are running a channel that’s parallel to the sea (like the intracoastal waterway.) Or, when rivers merge and such.

GENERALLY speaking, you just make sure that you stay BETWEEN the red and green markers. Life BETWEEN the markers is usually “good.” Life OUTSIDE the markers is usually risky, and makes you aware of the risks pretty quickly (submerged dikes and levees; shoals and shallows; and other underwater obstructions.)

So, you can imagine our surprise when it APPEARS that our red & green marker buoys are leading us STRAIGTH shore at one point!!! (I took a picture of it.) Apparently, a red channel marker from upstream, and pulled loose for awhile, and drifted downstream, until it’s anchor finally “re-caught” itself (coincidentally adjacent to a green marker buoy.) So, if you were motoring along in complete darkness, and “spotlighting” the reflections of marker buoys, and just “driving” between red and green – these two buoys would have directed you straight ashore!!!

In closing, I have been astonished by things passing us (and illustrating how slowly we are traveling.) The most ultimate insult to-date = BUTTERFLIES are passing us!!!!

Several passed us this morning before the rains. At one point, a Monarch butterfly landed on my shoulder, as if to say, “Howdy.” It then flew off my shoulder, and down to the helm/control area. For about 20 minutes there, Magellan the Monarch had the helm! He seemed quite content to be catching a free and easy ride southbound. Unfortunately, the rains soon came, and I had to run around like crazy to put a few electrical items and such away (to avoid getting them wet and ruined.) In my mad-dash rush, Magellan the Monarch was scared, and flew away to safety.

About 55 miles from the coastline today, we began to pickup a flock of seagulls. They seemed to know the look/shape of a fishing boat or shrimp boat (trawler-style.) They followed behind us, periodically diving into the churning water behind our props, to catch a stunned/wayward fish.

For us, they were like the welcome wagon – calling “welcome home” to us.

We have yet to see a gator during this trip. (I expect to see dophins and manatees once we get into the intercoastal waterway, too.)

We made it to the 20 mile marker today (20 miles north of Mobile, AL.) That’s a 98-mile run (and includes one lock-through.) But, we are at sea-level now – no more locks – YIPPEE!!!


Tomorrow, we only have about a 60-mile (or so) run from our current anchorage, to Gulf Shores, AL. Hopefully, we will be done sometime between 3 and 5 pm tomorrow (local time.) It depends on the weather and such. But, the tides are in our favor (falling tide as we were approaching tonight – which sucks us FASTER towards the sea.) And, high-tide in the mid-morning (when we have to make a few-hour run across the shallows.)

We can’t WAIT for the water to get clear!

Night all,

Nick & Kelly